Mumbai is getting ready for the New Year's Eve celebrations. All major hotels in the city are hosting parties. Hotels compete for attracting Bollywood celebrities on New Year's Eve. I head down early for my last breakfast at the Taj Lands End. I'm very surprised to see a few staff members of the breakfast restaurant coming over to my table to wish me a safe flight back and to say good-bye.
Today is a day of odds and ends. I still have to buy a few souvenirs and I now need a new pair of shoes because I'm not sure it's a good idea to fly back to -13 degree weather with torn shoes. (Since I have the -good or bad- habit of packing very light, torn shoes are my only option at this point...). So I head up to Linking Road (this time after 10:30, to ensure everything is open) ready for some street shopping and my last chance to bargain for some awesome prices. I end up with a pair of shoes for my flight back home, a couple of purses and a few other gifts.
After a short rest at the hotel, I'm headed out to the airport. I'm sad to leave India. At the airport, I meet a couple of Americans who have been traveling through India for a couple of weeks. They tell me about Pune and Hyderabad. I tell them about Mumbai. As we ring in the New Year at Gate 4, we all make a new year's resolution to make some changes in our lifestyles and learn "the India way". We tell each other what places in India are still in our wish lists (number 1 on mine is Udaipur; on theirs, Chennai and Mumbai) and we all make a promise to ourselves to come back. Again and soon.
Jan 6, 2008
Day 7: Determined to come back soon
Day 6: Sunset at Haji Ali, evening at Koyla
We headed down to a shopping centre in Worli, Atria, to catch a 4-D movie. The movie lasts 15 minutes. However, all showings were booked for the next 4 hours. After a short walk around the mall, we decided to venture out and take a walk towards the water. There was a slight breeze which made the sun much more tolerable (I know, I'm from the cold and foggy part of Spain, so not much of a "sun bug"). Our walk took us in front of Nehru place- a very distinctive building in the Mumbai skyline- and ended at the promenade across from the Haji Ali Mosque.
Mumbai is a photographer's paradise. Architecture, portraits, panoramic views... it has it all. Sunset at Haji Ali is one of the most beautiful views I've ever seen. The way the sun reflects on the sea behind the mosque reminds me of sunset in Istanbul. Our timing couldn't be better. Amit got to take quite a few beautiful shots of the sunset over the mosque.
Amit: Koyla, in Colaba. Virtually around the corner from the Taj Mahal Hotel, it offers a rooftop dinner experience with a fantastic view of Colaba. Excellent food (I loved the garlic naan!) and superb views (not so impressive service). Definitely worthwhile.A walk around Colaba brought us to a very well-known place by any local, Sachin Tendulkar's restaurant and sports bar on Chhatrapatti Shivaji Maharaj Mark. (By now you've figured out that if you can say "Chhatrapatti Shivaji", you can pretty much go anywhere in Mumbai... ha!)
Right next to the Cottage Industries store (which seems to be recommended in most tourist guides as one of the places to buy souvenirs, although I found very reasonable prices in other stores in the suburbs) is the restaurant opened by one of cricket's greatest, Mumbai's own Sachin Tendulkar. The neon-blue tunnel led us into the gift shop and the sports bar and restaurant upstairs, decorated with cricket memorabilia. The glass tables and the paper coasters have printed quotes about Tendulkar. The menu, a combination of international dishes (including two of my favorite desserts - tiramisu and crème brûlée-) at very reasonable prices for that type of place.
At a glance, this seems to me like just one more celebrity sports bar. No different than Wayne Gretzky's, Michael Jordan's or Amare Stoudemire's. Similar food, similar big screen TVs and sports memorabilia on the walls. What makes it so special to the local Mumbai resident? The name behind the restaurant. Any Mumbaiker will tell you that Sachin Tendulkar is not just a talented cricket player, but someone who has gone against all odds to make it to the top. He's slightly shorter than the average cricket player, he started to compete internationally at a very young age (much earlier than the average cricket player in India) and has been competing ever since... and most importantly, he's an all-around nice guy. He's never involved in scandals or controversy regarding his personal life or his sports rivals. In this day and age, when money rules so many sports at an elite level, players like Tendulkar who are an example of talent and sportsmanship and always show pride in competing for their colors are definitely a rare commodity.
Day 5: I found my dream house!
My usual start of the day... Seeing the sun rise over the Arabian Sea, heading down for breakfast and a friendly chat with the staff of the breakfast restaurant. They are spoiling me rotten and I realize today that I'm not going to like having to make my own breakfast when I get home.
I have a great view of Band Stand. People are walking along the shore, occasionally stopping to soak their feet in the water. It is early in the morning and the sun is already quite strong. However, this is winter in Mumbai. CNN is broadcasting images and a list of somewhat potentially volatile areas outside Pakistan, in the aftermath of Buttho's assassination. I agree with most of the people I've talked to here about who is behind this, but I can't help laughing when I look out the window and see a perfectly calm area. Large cities in India are marked as places with potential for violence and demonstrations after Buttho's death. In the last two days, I've passed by predominantly Muslim neighbourhoods, predominantly Hindu neighbourhoods, mosques, temples, and churches... not a sign of violence anywhere. Sorry to disappoint the Amanpours and the Coopers, but no sign of anything brewing in Mumbai.
My first stop of the day is Worli Sea Face. After a brief lunch at a neighbourhood Chinese restaurant, we head out to the promenade in Worli. Worli is the other end of the already-under-construction Worli-Bandra Sea Link, which as Amit has quickly pointed out, will "save" 46 traffic lights. During peak traffic, that will save a considerable amount of time. As we walk down the promenade, I hope the so anticipated Sea Link does not spoil such a beautiful view of the sea.
Worli has quite an interesting blend of architectural styles. Brand new highrises share streets with very old (and sometimes abandoned) buildings, obvious vestiges of another era. Many of the houses are full of character. I love the charm of old buildings. It's a refreshing break from my "cookie-cutter" world in North America. While Amit is taking pictures of the famous statue in the promenade, I notice a house across the street. It seems abandoned. It's a corner building from the colonial era. The view from that house must be spectacular. (Note to self: I need to figure out a way to increase the odds of winning the 649... I would love to buy that house!)
Tonight, a new experience for dinner... a sizzler restaurant. We opt for Kobe, in Bandra, where we order (you betcha!) paneer. A sizzler dish is a very hot cast-iron plate where the food is cooked and is still cooking (sizzling) by the time it reaches your table. Our order is an enormous portion of vegetables and cheese. Truth be told, I could just eat with the smell coming from the orders placed by other tables. All the dishes seemed delicious.
Day 4: No ordinary light...
A day on my own... It's hot and very sunny. I wake up at sunrise and get ready (of course!) for breakfast. I look forward to talking to the staff at the breakfast restaurant in my hotel every morning. They are always friendly and pleasant, always interested in how my vacation is going and in my opinions of their city. A real treat.
Up until now, many of the places I've visited looked familiar. Today, I am going to visit for the first time something that has a lot of meaning to me: Gandhi's House. Growing up, like so many children in so many countries, I've studied the life and teachings of Ghandi. Over the years, I've been very lucky and had the chance to travel to many places in the world, realizing that his ideas transcend time and cultures. Having the chance to visit a house where he spent time and where his room has been preserved intact is the highlight of my day.
I grab my bottle of water and sit comfortably in the back of a cab for what I expect to be another long ride to Gam Devi. In this case, the delay is due to an accident: a pedestrian gets hit by the car in front of us. Not a good start to the day, but jay-walking in Mumbai is a task that requires all six senses, like we would say in Spanish.
Gandhi's House is located on Grant Road, in Gam Devi, a nice residential neighbourhood in Mumbai. The house has a small library and a museum, with a recreation of some of the important events of his life and some of his most famous quotes. One of them really has an impact on me:
I look around me after reading this thought. There are pictures everywhere of Ghandi with high profile figures of the 20th century. I think of the places I've traveled to, the friends I've made along the way, my "home-culture" and my "adopted-culture", and the prejudice I see around me on a daily basis... and I'm even more impressed with the meaning of those words.
Gandhi's House is worth visiting. Even if you've read extensively about Gandhi's life and his teachings, seeing some of those things in the context of a city like Mumbai gives it a new meaning. We know him as the founder of a country. However, in Mumbai it becomes evident that he founded this country "from the inside out", by reminding his countrymen to stand tall and proud, to celebrate again their own traditions and stay true to their own culture and values. (As Nehru said, he was "no ordinary light"). It's this type of mentality that has brought 300 million people out of poverty in the last few years in India. True, there is still a very long way to go; children die still everyday in poverty; there are still a lot of problems. But the way people pull together is a lesson to all. (Maybe is not Gandhi's doing... but it's nevertheless impressive!)
One of the things I miss in Mumbai is walking around. When I travel, I usually like to get lost in the streets, walk around different neighbourhoods, and stumble upon "out of the way" hidden gems. It may be a building, a store or a coffee shop that somehow get my attention. Due to the scale of the city, this is a bit difficult. So after Gam Devi, I decide to head down by cab to Nariman Point (a short cab ride) and take a stroll there.
Much to my surprise, a familiar face and a familiar voice. A friend whom I haven't seen for a couple of years is in Mumbai on business. We decide to meet later on for dinner and try one of the restaurants on my list: Saffron.
By the time I head back to my hotel is time for a late lunch. I stop by Pure, the first organic restaurant in India and one of the three restaurants in my hotel. I have heard about this restaurant back home and I'm delighted to have the chance to meet the chef, California-born Jason K., who kindly shares with me some of his experiences at the restaurant, a couple of impressions of his time in Mumbai, and some of his thoughts and plans for the near future. The baked goat cheese and the artichoke-stuffed wontons were delicious, and there is an extensive selection of loose-leaf teas to please every palate. A meal at Pure is a unique experience, from the serene and eclectic environment to the unique creations blending Eastern and Western flavors. Just like its neighbour, Masala Bay, Pure is a must for any gourmet traveler.
I spent the rest of the afternoon at the hotel, trying to get away from the heat outside. In the evening, I joined my friend at his hotel, JW Marriott, to go for dinner at Saffron. The JW Marriott is a popular hotel for business people and usually has a lot of North American guests. It's located in Juhu Beach and it's notorious for its nightclub and its New Year's Eve party.
Saffron has the reputation of being one of the best Indian restaurants in the city. The succulent dishes, with a Hyderabadi inspiration (what do I know about Hyderabadi cuisine? Of course I read that somewhere!) are cooked in an open kitchen. As you are eating dinner, you can smell the aromas from the kitchen. The food is delicious and the service is fantastic.
How can they get those clothes so clean?
Our first landmark of the day was Dhobi Ghaat. These "outdoor laundromats" are a tourist attraction in Mumbai. A large surface is covered with rows of stone basins full of water and flat stone surfaces where men, skipping from one basin to another with the grace and agility of acrobats, soap, wash, rinse, and hang countless amounts of laundry. From the top of the stairs that lead to it, one can see how the entire system flows seamlessly. One can only imagine what a hard job it must be in the summer, when the temperature easily hits 45°C. Clothes are wrung and thrashed on the stones. Only men are allowed to do this job. Then, the clothes are hung on clotheslines above the roofs of the dhobi ghaat.
It seems almost unbelievable how sudsy (almost murky) water, in that heat and that pollution, can get clothes so clean. Rows of sparkling white shirts are hanging above one roof and I can't help being in awe about it. (Note to self: I need to have a serious talk with my Samsung washer...My whites don't look like those-by far!)
The next stop of the day, the Hanging Gardens, offered a much needed peace and quiet from the noi
sy Mumbai traffic. The gardens provide a spectacular view of the Queen's Necklace and although small, they have a lot of lawn areas where Mumbaikers can take a break from their busy days. That particular day, a couple of tour buses brought many families to the gardens and the laughter of children was everywhere. It made me realize that the particular way children have of making the most out of something simple, like the statue of the shoe in the gardens, is common to any language and any country.
Amit had an incredible surprise in store for me. He had heard of a restaurant by the water in
Chowpatty Beach, Salt Water Grill. After a few attempts to find it, Amit's perseverance and a cab driver that wouldn't give up, we made it to the restaurant. The view of Marine Drive from there is spectacular. Our timing was perfect and we made it on time for a fantastic sunset. The restaurant is set up right on the sand, in the H20 sports complex, flanked by terracotta statues and with straw thatches. Although the service is nothing impressive and the prices are not very reasonable compared with other places in the city, it's worth going there just for the view.
Without a doubt, the perfect ending to a very relaxing day.
Jan 3, 2008
Day 3: Anil who? A 5-wicket what?
Every morning, a selection of local newspapers and a printout of a couple of Spanish online newspapers are delivered to my room. Usually, Shah Rukh Khan is on every other page of every single newspaper, either on print ads, spotted the previous evening in a restaurant or club, or because of some quote he made to the press in regards to his latest movie, his upcoming movie, or his "friendship" with Bollywood legend Amitabh Bachchan.
Ah, but today is a new day! The first test match in the Boxing Day cricket series between India and Australia finished with a defeat of the Indian team. However, that pales in comparison with the attention given by the media to Anil Kumble, who scalped his 35th five-wicket haul during the first match. I turn page after page, reading all the articles from top to bottom, without understanding a single word. After 1/2 hour of reading newspapers, I realize that I'm back at square one. I still don't understand anything about cricket. As I get ready to go out, I prepare a mental list of questions for Amit. After all, how hard can it be to learn the rules of cricket, right?
Oh, so wrong! From the moment I see Amit, I start firing questions at him "machine-gun style". So, what's the big deal about this 5-wicket haul? Actually, what is a 5-wicket haul? No, no, wait a second... what on earth is a wicket? So what's the difference between a wicket and a batsman? Hold on a sec here... Is a spinner like a baseball pitcher? I can see Amit's frustration as I keep asking questions... How can someone not know a thing about cricket? Ah, life was so much easier when the Khans and the Bachchans were the main feature in the print media!!!
The long cab ride downtown is my very own "cricket tutorial". This is a source of Indian pride and I want to learn as much as I can about it. The way everyone comes together about an international cricket match reminds me very much of the way many countries pull together to root for their teams during the football World Cup or the Olympics. The whole city was glued to their TV sets and everyone held their breath when the fate of a point was in the hands of Tendulkar or Kumble. Just the same way my dad and grandpa would hold their breath when Spain's fate would rely on a penalty shot. I know this feeling. Regional differences are set aside for one day, and for one day, we are all one country. I make it my new year's resolution to learn more about a sport that can bring together 1.1 billion people when I go back home.
Sheesha - Rooftop dinner with a Moroccan feel
Located on the top floor of a shopping center in Bandra, Sheesha is a rooftop restaurant that offers Hooka and Indian cuisine, all of it with a slight Moroccan feel that reminded me of previous trips to Casablanca, Fez, and Algiers. Gravel walkaways lead to tables set under canopies offering an excellent break from the hustle and bustle of the street. (Bandra comes alive in the evenings, especially around the holidays. It's full of "hot spots" where Bollywood celebrities can be seen and one quickly gets the feeling that it's "the place to be". Evenings in Bandra are nothing but busy and full of live, often with processions or large groups of people on the street.)
The paneer at Sheesha is absolutely delicious. Rotis and naans leave you wanting more and the atmosphere makes you feel like you are the only one in the restaurant. You can smell the fruity aroma of the hooka pipes from other tables. It was definitely the perfect way to end my shopping day!
**(I must apologize to Amit for making him "suffer" through numerous paneer dinners during my stay... Despite him not beeing very keen on paneer he ordered it over and over again at my request!)
Day 2: Boxing Day shopping...on India time
It's Boxing Day! Traditionally, I would round up a couple of friends and we would hit the stores complaining there aren't enough "good deals" in the Boxing Day sales in Toronto. This year, I decided that since I was going to spend the day by myself, I should go shopping for some gifts to bring home. So, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed at 7 a.m., I headed down for another marathon breakfast. Needless to say, I am impressed again by the selection of foods and by the courtesy and service of the staff at Vista.
It was 9 a.m. and I was eager to hit the streets. The news channels were broadcasting all sorts of theories about India's strategy for the greatly anticipated cricket match. India was facing Australia in game 1 of a 4-game test match series. I grew up watching football and basketball and I must admit I know absolutely nothing about cricket. Completely uninterested in all the cricket experts on TV, I decided to go out and do some window shopping...
And window shopping was pretty much all I could do... I decided to start in an area close to my hotel, Linking Road, in Bandra, where one can find a good mixture of stores and street stalls. I was told I could find very reasonably priced (what an euphemism!) shoes, purses, and t-shirts there.
The rickshaw ride was a bit eventful. My car was involved in a slight fender-bender with another rickshaw, and I was impressed at how calm everyone involved was... I got to Linking Road at about 9:30... just to find everything closed. I figured it wouldn't be long before they would open, so I decided to have a cup of tea at one of the nearby neighbourhood cafés. At 10, I ventured out again ... still closed. All I could hear was the echo of the radio broadcast of the cricket match. I decided to ask one of the security guards outside one store, who told me stores usually open at 10:30 am. (Still half an hour!) I hailed a cab to go downtown. That would surely kill time. Boxing Day is a regular work day for many people in Mumbai, so the morning traffic would require at least a 1 1/2 - 2 hour ride downtown to Colaba from Bandra.
In the cab ride, the driver explained to me the importance of the cricket match and tried to give me a quick summary of the rules of cricket, as well as his personal opinion of what India should do to win against the Aussies... Every comment from the radio announcer was followed by an "ooh" or a "yeah!" from my cab driver... On our way to Colaba, my driver stopped once to buy some roadside snacks and once more to buy tea from a roadside stall. He walked back to the taxi with two cups of tea and offered me one. We had some morning tea while listening to the development of the match and talking about my shopping plans.
Colaba is an area with a lot of foreign tourists. Prices are usually higher there than in other areas of Mumbai, and the stores resemble the shops one could find anywhere back home. I was interested in shopping for fabrics in a store where local Mumbaikers would shop, so my cab driver suggested a chain store in Dadar (w) called Paaneri.
Shopping "Mumbai-style" is a fantastic experience. The stores are designed with large counter tops and long lines of chairs or stools for customers to sit in. One can sit at the counter and sip a cup of tea, coffee, water or a soft drink while shop assistants bring loads of merchandise that they unfold, measure and display for the customers. The store has a fixed-price policy, but prices can be slightly negotiated.
If you are in a rush, that's not the type of store for you. However, remember that you are in India... You are "on India time", like the locals call it. So sit back, relax, enjoy your drink, and admire the amazing fabrics the shop assistants bring your way...
Of course, I left the store with a few bags. The security guard asked me to wait inside in the A/C while he went to get my cab driver. When I explained I still wanted to do a bit more shopping, they took my bags and asked one shop assistant to take me to a shop across the street where I could find the bangles and costume jewelry I was looking for. Another cup of chai later, I left the store with two gorgeous sets of bangles, all for about $15-20 dollars. Again, my cab driver was kindly waiting for me, loaded my bags in the car, asked me if I needed anything else, offered me another drink and at my request, drove me back to my hotel.
Most cab drivers will offer to wait for tourists while they go shopping, visit museums, etc. If you are going to be a while, it may be worth to settle the bill and ask them not to wait. Cabs have a "tariff card" that will show the price. Negotiating a flat fee for a long distance ride is not allowed in Mumbai, but you will find that many drivers will offer a flat fee. Usually, that fee is quite a bit higher than the actual price you would pay if you opted for the "meter fee". (During my stay, I never had to pay more than 170 Rs. for a ride from Bandra to Colaba, so 150 Rs. may be a good reference point to negotiate a flat fee ride for that distance. If you think in US or Canadian dollars, a 1 1/2 hour ride in peak traffic from the Northern suburb of Bandra to the Southern tip of the city, Colaba, can set you off a "whooping" $4 or 5 Canadian dollars...I think I won't be able to take a cab in Toronto for quite a while. The same distance on a weekend night can easily set me off $80 - 100 dollars! Ouch!)
Many tourists will rent drivers for the day. Major hotels can help you make arrangements for that and some of the main travel agencies in Mumbai will also be able to find you a driver. Drivers usually have a/c cars and speak a bit more English. They act as "tour guides" and will drive you around in one day to the main tourist attractions of the city, at your request. Since I had a fantastic tour guide, I opted for hailing a cab or a rickshaw when needed.
The "damage" for my Boxing Day shopping spree, approximately $300 dollars including cab rides... The results, two sets of bangles, some custom jewelry, three sarees, 6 silk tops, and a pile of scarves and pashmina shawls... Now, how about that for Boxing Day prices? :)
Jan 2, 2008
Lucky Biryani
Some of my friends in Canada had recommended the biryani at a restaurant in Bandra called Lucky. Since it was just a short rickshaw ride away from my hotel, it seemed like a good idea for my Christmas dinner. The restaurant was packed with couples and families, the food was excellent (we had biryani and roomali roti), and we even had a visit from an ex-pat Santa who went around the neighbourhood dressed in full costume spreading Christmas cheer.
As a vegetarian, I was gladly surprised with the menu. I would later on realize that it's common practice in most restaurants in Mumbai to divide each category of dishes (appetizers, main courses, etc.) into vegetarian and non-vegetarian choices. My first reaction that night when looking at the menu was "what? you mean I'm not stuck with some salad and having to push the chicken strips aside?" :) By the end of my week in Mumbai, I was used to have at least 6 or 7 strictly vegetarian appetizers to choose from, and at least as many entrees. (I could already guess that coming back home would be bad!!! Back to minestrone soup and to picking out the bacon of my salad...)
After the restaurant, a rickshaw ride to Reclamation Point. Reclamation Point is a boardwark overlooking the Arabian Sea. At sunset, it offered a fantastic view of the Arabian Sea. From there, we could see the reflection of the billboards in the water across the bay, the ferris wheel of a nearby amusement park, the lights and party setup of a Hindu wedding and we could hear the prayer chants of a Mosque in a close-by district...
Although Reclamation Point seemed quite close to my hotel, because of traffic, road construction and the labyrinth of roads and streets in that area, we decided to take another rickshaw ride. Rickshaws are a very common sight in Mumbai. They operate only in the suburbs and are not allowed in the city centre. Riding one of these three-wheelers is like an E ride at any amusement park. For once, I saw the advantage of being short. I could imagine some of my Canadian friends slamming their heads on the roof of the rickshaw with every bump in the road. A ride in a rickshaw is usually more affordable than a ride in a regular cab, which in turn is quite a bit cheaper than a ride in a cool cab. (But really, what is the fun of riding in an a/c "cool cab"? Unless you are really concerned about messing up your hair with the heat and the humidity, or you need to look impeccable for your business meeting, go for the fun ride in a regular cab... or even better, take a rickshaw!)
When in Mumbai, keep walking
The area around Crawford Market is full of bazaars and street vendors. One can find just about anything there, from rugs to underwear. It's a crowded and lively place that reminded me of Turkish or Moroccan bazaars. The side alleys lead to a labyrinth of walkways when one can find antiques, jewelry, rugs, and all sorts of fabrics and housewares. When we asked someone on the street for directions, he led us through some narrow passages and archways to our destination. The passages were flanked by stalls selling some of the most beautiful silk fabrics I've seen. Of course, I made one of the "biggest mistakes" someone can make in Mumbai... :) I stopped! Within 5 seconds, I was hearing people in line behind me yelling at me to keep moving... Because when you are in Mumbai, chalo!, go with the flow... and keep walking... :)
Prince of Wales, the Gateway and Colaba
Amit has graciously agreed to begin our day of sightseeing by visiting the Prince of Wales Museum, which is the number 1 spot on my list. On our way there, we pass by a few other famous landmarks in Mumbai, such as the Haji Ali Mosque. The Mosque, while still majestic right on the water, connected only to land by a promenade, shows the effects of the smog. Amit mentions how he recalls the building being much whiter in color when he visited Mumbai with his family as a child. To me, it is still a very impressive building.
The name of the museum, like so many other names in the city, has changed. It is no longer Prince of Wales Museum but Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (now it probably makes sense to you why I keep calling it "Prince of Wales"...) The building is a fantastic example of Indo-Saracen architecture, which is abundant throughout south Mumbai. It displays several private collections from the colonial era, as well as items from different periods in Indian history. The admission fee for non residents includes an audio tour of the museum. My favorite pieces in the museum were definitely the Rajahstani drawings and the sword collections.
Of course, a must in Mumbai is the Gateway of India. This arch is the symbol of Mumbai. It is
located in Colaba, right across the street from the Taj Mahal Hotel, the first hotel in Mumbai and still considered as one of the best places to stay in the city. Colaba is without doubt the most touristy neighbourhood in Mumbai. Spotted with luxury hotels, it still reflects the charm of a colonial era and proudly boasts the results of a city that is the financial heart of the country. Silver horse-drawn carriages offer tourists a ride around the city center and are a popular attraction both for Indians and foreigners alike. The Gateway is bustling with street vendors, selling everything from balloons to roasted snacks. I'm surprised to feel really homesick here. Seeing families together by the docks, enjoying their holiday reminds me of weekends with my family by the harbourfront in my hometown eating roasted chestnuts from a paper funnel.
The Colaba Causeway is flanked by stands of street vendors. You can buy bangles, scarves, pashmina shawls, purses, bags, books, figurines, sandals, and a myriad of other things. Bargaining is a must and it is also an art in this city. I am really in my element here!
We need a break from the heat and the crowd so my tour guide comes up with a brilliant idea: Café Mondegar. The Casablanca fans provide the much needed relief from the outside heat and the caricature drawings on the walls provide a somehow soothing distraction from the busy streets. Mondegar is a popular hangout spot for both foreigners and locals. A great place to have a Kingfisher while listening to some pop or jazz music. (I was honestly glad to hear Kanye West after an entire day of Christmas music and Om Shanti Om, the Bollywood song that I heard at least twice a day while in Mumbai.)
We are relying on a couple of Kingfisher pints to give us energy to tackle Crawford Market...
Horn OK Please
Mumbai traffic is a tourist attraction on itself. Honking is a language understood by one and all in this city. It is not related in any way to aggressive driving, as one would think in a Western country. Honking is simply a way to say "to your left!" or "to your right!" or "right behind ya!". There is no such thing as road rage in Mumbai; somehow, volumes of traffic that could easily shut down any city in a Western country miraculously flow smoothly in Mumbai. Drivers share lanes (it's quite common to see 5 cars sharing a three lane street) with motorbikes and jay-walkers. It's not a traffic for the faint of heart or for anyone with poor reflexes. Surprisingly enough, there are very few accidents for the amount of cars and pedestrians on the road. (I got to see two, though, during my stay in the city.)
Mumbai is a city of contrasts. This is also evident in the traffic. Old cab models share the road with the latest Mercedes or Maruti-Suzuki models. Large Toyota Highlanders or American minivans drive along the main traffic arteries of the city together with small European cars, people in bikes and street vendors pushing carts or pulling ox-driven carts. Many models are manufactured without side mirrors which is understandable considering how close the cars come to each other (literally a couple of inches) during regular traffic flow.
Everyone shares the road, just like everyone shares this city, regardless of religion, background or caste. Without road rage, without stress and without animosity to others. Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims wishing me a "Merry Christmas" wherever I went. As far as I am concerned, that's a pretty good Christmas message!
Day 1: We wish you a Merry Christmas
December 25th. My first day in Mumbai. It's Christmas Day and I woke up to an amazing view of the sunrise over the Arabian Sea. Mumbai is slowly waking up. Television channels are broadcasting special Christmas shows and everywhere in my hotel I can hear Christmas music playing. Everywhere I go in my hotel, the staff greets me with a smile and a "Merry Christmas".
I'm almost ready to explore the city... but first, I am eager to have my first meal in India. Breakfast at the Taj Lands End is a real feast. The staff members at Vista are corteous, polite, and always willing to make every meal a fantastic experience. They offer to make me any breakfast of my choice, but I'm more interested in trying all those awesome-looking Indian dishes I can see in the buffet. There is an entire section dedicated just to local vegetarian dishes and the chefs take their time to explain how there is no special "breakfast foods" in Indian cuisine and how every dish is made. Of course, I have to try the idli (a type of fluffy pancake with chutney and a vegetable soup). The parotha and aloo smell delicious, and the Goan-style empanadas bring me back to a childhood tradition. Growing up in Northern Spain, my family would eat empanadas on special occasions. (After all, today it's Christmas, so the special day justifies loading up my dish with all this savoury food...)
Needless to say, it is a long breakfast. Drinking masala chai with a view of Band Stand is actually not a bad way to begin a vacation. My waiter is quick to point out that just around the corner is the house of Shah Rukh Khan, king of the box office in Bollywood. Since I'm such a big fan of his movies, I write down a reminder to take a stroll up the street to see his house.
I'm ready to go explore! My tour guide, Amit (who is an awesome photographer, as shown by all the pics on this blog) has prepared an itinerary of places to see today. First stop is the Prince of Wales Museum...but first, I have to endure a Mumbai cab ride...
Don't look for your country in any country
Definitely, this Spanish saying rings true in Mumbai. From the moment I got off the plane and was greeted by a policeman armed with a machine gun, who wished me Merry Christmas with a smile, to the "sideways nod" that I got from the immigration personnel at the airport as an answer to one of my questions, to the "namaste" greeting from the hotel staff upon check in, or the smell of orchids, lilies and incense in my hotel room...Everything told me I was in a very different environment, in a completely different culture...in a city that somehow, made me feel very much at home.
34 and sunny
December 24, 2007. 11 P.M. As my plane starts the descent towards Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, I'm going over all the things I remember from my previous visit to Mumbai...It's been a very long time and I don't know what to expect. I have very fond memories of traveling to India. The colours, the smell of incense and spices, the crowds...The easy-going lifestyle that has won over so many foreigners when they visited the country...The heat! I walk through the airport to collect my luggage, realizing that I had forgotten how hot it can get in Mumbai. The warm breeze outside the airport is quite a contrast from the pile of snow in my driveway back home. It's midnight and the temperature outside reaches 25° C. The forecast for tomorrow is 34 and sunny. Not quite exactly my usual Christmas weather.
This year, I chose to leave my white Christmas behind and I have the feeling I won't regret my choice.