A day on my own... It's hot and very sunny. I wake up at sunrise and get ready (of course!) for breakfast. I look forward to talking to the staff at the breakfast restaurant in my hotel every morning. They are always friendly and pleasant, always interested in how my vacation is going and in my opinions of their city. A real treat.
Up until now, many of the places I've visited looked familiar. Today, I am going to visit for the first time something that has a lot of meaning to me: Gandhi's House. Growing up, like so many children in so many countries, I've studied the life and teachings of Ghandi. Over the years, I've been very lucky and had the chance to travel to many places in the world, realizing that his ideas transcend time and cultures. Having the chance to visit a house where he spent time and where his room has been preserved intact is the highlight of my day.
I grab my bottle of water and sit comfortably in the back of a cab for what I expect to be another long ride to Gam Devi. In this case, the delay is due to an accident: a pedestrian gets hit by the car in front of us. Not a good start to the day, but jay-walking in Mumbai is a task that requires all six senses, like we would say in Spanish.
Gandhi's House is located on Grant Road, in Gam Devi, a nice residential neighbourhood in Mumbai. The house has a small library and a museum, with a recreation of some of the important events of his life and some of his most famous quotes. One of them really has an impact on me:
I look around me after reading this thought. There are pictures everywhere of Ghandi with high profile figures of the 20th century. I think of the places I've traveled to, the friends I've made along the way, my "home-culture" and my "adopted-culture", and the prejudice I see around me on a daily basis... and I'm even more impressed with the meaning of those words.
Gandhi's House is worth visiting. Even if you've read extensively about Gandhi's life and his teachings, seeing some of those things in the context of a city like Mumbai gives it a new meaning. We know him as the founder of a country. However, in Mumbai it becomes evident that he founded this country "from the inside out", by reminding his countrymen to stand tall and proud, to celebrate again their own traditions and stay true to their own culture and values. (As Nehru said, he was "no ordinary light"). It's this type of mentality that has brought 300 million people out of poverty in the last few years in India. True, there is still a very long way to go; children die still everyday in poverty; there are still a lot of problems. But the way people pull together is a lesson to all. (Maybe is not Gandhi's doing... but it's nevertheless impressive!)
One of the things I miss in Mumbai is walking around. When I travel, I usually like to get lost in the streets, walk around different neighbourhoods, and stumble upon "out of the way" hidden gems. It may be a building, a store or a coffee shop that somehow get my attention. Due to the scale of the city, this is a bit difficult. So after Gam Devi, I decide to head down by cab to Nariman Point (a short cab ride) and take a stroll there.
Much to my surprise, a familiar face and a familiar voice. A friend whom I haven't seen for a couple of years is in Mumbai on business. We decide to meet later on for dinner and try one of the restaurants on my list: Saffron.
By the time I head back to my hotel is time for a late lunch. I stop by Pure, the first organic restaurant in India and one of the three restaurants in my hotel. I have heard about this restaurant back home and I'm delighted to have the chance to meet the chef, California-born Jason K., who kindly shares with me some of his experiences at the restaurant, a couple of impressions of his time in Mumbai, and some of his thoughts and plans for the near future. The baked goat cheese and the artichoke-stuffed wontons were delicious, and there is an extensive selection of loose-leaf teas to please every palate. A meal at Pure is a unique experience, from the serene and eclectic environment to the unique creations blending Eastern and Western flavors. Just like its neighbour, Masala Bay, Pure is a must for any gourmet traveler.
I spent the rest of the afternoon at the hotel, trying to get away from the heat outside. In the evening, I joined my friend at his hotel, JW Marriott, to go for dinner at Saffron. The JW Marriott is a popular hotel for business people and usually has a lot of North American guests. It's located in Juhu Beach and it's notorious for its nightclub and its New Year's Eve party.
Saffron has the reputation of being one of the best Indian restaurants in the city. The succulent dishes, with a Hyderabadi inspiration (what do I know about Hyderabadi cuisine? Of course I read that somewhere!) are cooked in an open kitchen. As you are eating dinner, you can smell the aromas from the kitchen. The food is delicious and the service is fantastic.
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